LAUREA SPECIALISTICA IN INGEGNERIA PER L'AMBIENTE ED IL
TERRITORIO
LAUREA SPECIALISTICA IN INGEGNERIA CIVILE
"Coastal management" 3 credits - Part of:
"RIVER AND COASTAL MANAGEMENT " AA 2017-2018
Module: Coastal Processes
The two parts of the course are closely coordinated: Eugenio Pugliese Carratelli and Fabio Dentale are in charge of the "coastal management", Mariolina Papa of the "river management". This page only deals with the coastal module
Waves-BasicConcepts
An Idealized wave theory: Airy (Stokes I); velocity
profiles..Dispersion equation; Energy flux -Shoaling, Refraction,. Wave breaking: type of breakers, Irribarren Parameter. Radiation Stresses; Real waves: sea state, SWH. Wave energy.
Basic principles of
set-up, run up
Beach sedimentBalance-BasicConcepts
Beach sediment balance-The tools
Sediments: settling velocity Cross/shore erosion
Bed shear stress;
threshold ;Shields
diagram ;basic formulas for suspension and bed
flow .Cross-shore
erosion and
accretion ;for given wave climate, effect of coast
orientation, beach slope, sediment size.
Longshore
currents.
Longshore sediment movement: CERC-Like formulas. .
Calibration of CERC - like formulas. A real life case: Amantea.
Beach profiles
(Dean) .
Closure depth.
Sediment continuity an o
Models:
Genesys, XBeach,
SBEACH
... – Recalling b.
. Larson and Kraus 1988).
Final project: choose a point around the Italian coast and extract the story of its wave climate from the data supplied in the exercise; consider a length of coast in the nearby; evaluate the direction of the coast and use the data to deretermine: the trend to cross shore erosion or accretion ; the trend of longshore transport (two diretion and total), Find evidence (or otherwise) of the results with Googlemaps. Determine closure depth
EXAMS ARE BASED UPON A PRESENTION AND A DISCUSSION OF THE FINAL PROJECT (PRESENTATION CAN BE MADE IN ENGLISH, OR ITALIAN OR IN SPANISH)
Number of credits : 3
Course notes are available on www.eugeniopc.it \DIDATTICA1.htm (easily found by Googling EPCDIDATTICA), Students are expected to follow the lessons and to carry out the exercise and examples which are presented during the lessons. Please bring a laptop with you
US Army Corps of Engineers: http://www.a-jacks.com/Coastal/GeneralInfo/CEM/CEM.aspx
Atlante delle Coste" dell’ ARPAC
www.isprambiente.it/it/servizi-per-lambiente/stato-delle-coste/atlante-delle-coste
R. Soulsby “Dynamics of Marine Sands”
Thomas Telford
Waves-BasicConceptspdf